Peptides or Prostaglandins?

Why Opt for Peptides Over Prostaglandins?

Prostaglandin analogs (the hormone-based lash growth agents like bimatoprost) can have side effects like darkening of eyelids and iris, irritation, and even orbital fat loss. Certain peptides provide a gentler, hormone-free alternative by nourishing follicles and improving structural protein production without systemic effects.

These peptides are:

Biotinoyl Tripeptide‑1: Root Reinforcement & Thickening

• Structurally, this peptide links biotin with a tripeptide (Gly-His-Lys), enhancing adhesion in follicles 

• Clinical data: In a small volunteer group, lash thickness increased by ~19% after 30 days of serum use.

• Mechanism: It boosts keratinocyte proliferation, strengthens anchoring molecules like laminin‑5 and collagen IV, and may reduce DHT-related shedding.

Takeaway: Leaves lashes/brows looking fuller, anchored in the follicle, and less prone to breakage.

Myristoyl Pentapeptide‑17: Keratin Production & Growth Phase Extension

• A 5-amino-acid peptide tied to myristic acid, enhancing cell membrane uptake .

• Clinical trial (3 months, double-blind): Users saw double the increase in anagen-phase hairs and a 10% reduction in telogen-phase hairs compared to placebo at 45 days.

• It stimulates keratin gene expression at follicle level, promoting a longer growth phase.

• Other sources note improvements in lash regrowth and thickness, with no noted side effects.

Takeaway: Helps lashes & brows grow longer and stay in growth cycle longer, with fewer in resting phase.

Myristoyl Hexapeptide‑16: Strength & Density Booster

• A 6-amino-acid peptide designed to complement Pentapeptide‑17.

• Clinical feedback: formulations with both peptides (Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16 and Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17) increased volume, thickness, curl, and luster by ~9–35% over 90 days.

Takeaway: Works in synergy with Pentapeptide‑17 to fortify follicles and enhance visible fullness.

Synergy: The Peptide Trifecta

Using all three together targets multiple lash growth steps:

• Biotinoyl Tripeptide‑1 for anchoring and thicker lash shafts.

• Myristoyl Pentapeptide‑17 to promote growth phase extension.

• Myristoyl Hexapeptide‑16 to boost density and follicle strength.

This combination is the proven trifecta for healthier, fuller lashes and brows without prostaglandin side effects.

Tips for Choosing & Using a Serum

• Check ingredient concentration: These peptides should be listed among the top three or four ingredients. Alchemist Accrēscō lash serum contains a 10.2% concentration of all three peptides. This makes it significantly more effective than other peptide serums.

• Look for multi-peptide formulas: Serums containing only one or two peptides do not provide the full spectrum of benefits for visible lash enhancement.

• Be patient & consistent: Growth cycles require weeks 8–12 weeks for visible results.

• Use daily at bedtime: Apply a clean applicator to the upper lash line and allow to absorb.

Long-term benefits of peptide lash serum

Aside from the side effects of prostaglandin lash serums, the enhancement they provide is only from keeping the lash in the anagen (active growth) phase. This means that lashes only continue to grow longer, not stronger, because they don't shed as often. Prostaglandin serums don't actually create a thicker or healthier lash, and when discontinued, lashes (and brows) can shed dramatically and will go back to their previous state in a matter of months. A well formulated peptide lash serum not only provides length, but also repairs and strengthens from within the follicle, creating thicker, healthier lashes. After discontinuing a peptide serum, the follicle remains stronger long-term. The lashes will not maintain the length from the peptide combination, but will be able to continue producing well anchored, resilient lashes that were healthier than before. 

Click here to find out more about Alchemist Accrēscō lash serum.